The
Journal of Professor P. Aronnax
“Nunquam oro per bardus populus”
The
opinions expressed here are my own. All
writings displayed here serve the legitimate purposes of disseminating
information, raising public awareness, and stimulating intellectual debate; are
copyrighted; and may not be reproduced in any form without written consent of
Pat Regan, Webmaster, VulcaniaSubmarine.Com.
(SUBBER: an experienced homebuilt submarine enthusiast. One who has built and operated his own
submersible vessel.)
The first thing a prospective
subber needs to understand is that (because they are complex machines which
carry people through hostile environments) ALL SUBMARINES ARE INHERENTLY
DANGEROUS. Homebuilt submarines are an
area of endeavor where what you don’t know can hurt you. Now that you have been so advised, if you
decide to build or operate a submersible you do so at your own risk.
Traditionally, modern
submarines are produced by state-of-the-art design and manufacturing
facilities. Does that mean the
individual craftsman can’t build a sub in his own shop? No.
Many people have already done so, and more are doing it every day. Be that as it may, the roster of
accomplished homebuilt submarine enthusiasts is relatively small in comparison
to, say, the ranks of those who make homebuilt aircraft. Why?
Because building a sub requires a broad range of technical skills, and
information about subs has always been fairly esoteric.
Since the 1970’s, R. Frank Busby’s MANNED SUBMERSIBLES has been the most significant text describing the civilian submarine experience; but while it is an excellent catalogue of information about subs and their components, Busby really doesn’t tell the prospective subber how to go about building one. Clearly, there is a need for a comprehensive and reliable how-to manual about homebuilt submarines.
VulcaniaSubmarine.Com is a Website where homebuilt submarine enthusiasts
can obtain technical information and advice directly from experienced subbers,
and only from experienced subbers.
And, the how-to manual soon to be released through this website will
define the processes of design, construction, and operation, based on the
practical experience of those who have been living the homebuilt submarine
lifestyle for decades.
Experienced Subbers may
be the smallest class of craftsmen in existence or history. For the most part we are non-aligned,
self-taught artisans who take fierce pride in what we create. The truth is: most of the people reading
this essay will never build a submarine, if for no other reason than it’s a lot
of hard, dirty work. But there may be
one person out there reading this right now who is sincere about wanting to
become a subber, and if I can help that person safely achieve his goal, then
this Website will have served its purpose.
**********
Many homebuilt submarine
enthusiasts are hindered by something I call analysis paralysis: the tendency to “get stuck” at the
R&D phase and not progress to actual construction. If you are serious about building a
submersible, you want to avoid this trap.
Fortunately, that’s not hard to do.
Take a critical look at
where you’re at with your sub project, and if you think you might suffer from analysis
paralysis, be advised: the quickest way out of that trap is to start
building something. There’s a lot
to be learned from building a working model submarine, ROV, DPV, or
wetsub. It’s important to break the
inertia and get started.
Homebuilt submarine
design doesn’t require an Engineering Degree or a CAD program. The knowledge required to build your own
submarine is fairly simple, actually; and you can design one on a piece of
graph paper with nothing more sophisticated than an ink pen. If you need information: read books, study
actual submarines, and / or ask an experienced subber. But try to avoid getting stuck in the
“analysis paralysis” trap.
Hull construction, like
welding, is as much an art as it is a science; it’s not something you can learn
by study alone, you must get in and practice it. If nothing else, go buy yourself a torch and
a buzzbox and start fabricating with steel.
Before you can turn your dreams into reality, the day must
arrive when you start working with technologies. The sooner you do that, the sooner you’ll be building the sub
you’ve been thinking of.
To quote an old phrase: “There
aint nothin’ to it but to do it.”
Take enough time to be sure you know what you’re doing, of course; but
after that, get it on.
**********
DEEP
FLIGHT?
Graham Hawkes’ DEEP FLIGHT
and DEEP FLIGHT AVIATOR are among the nicest looking submarines I’ve ever seen,
but some of the claims regarding their performance seem questionable.
Some say Hawkes’ boats
are the first to fly down to depth, but there’s nothing new about subs
maintaining a small reserve of buoyancy and being forced underwater by the
hydrodynamic effect of the motion-relative flow acting upon planes and other
structural surfaces. That’s called diving the boat dynamically, and sub
pilots have been doing it for a long, long time.
It’s said Hawkes’ boats
don’t operate like other submarines do; but rather, they fly like airplanes
underwater. As a Flight Instructor
and submarine pilot, I disagree. To
achieve flight, airplanes rely on an aerodynamic force known as LIFT
generated by their wings to overcome gravity.
In contrast, submarines (DEEP FLIGHT and DEEP FLIGHT AVIATOR included)
are more like dirigibles than airplanes: endowed with sufficient
buoyancy to float in their operating environment, driven by thrust, and
maneuvered via dynamic control surfaces.
So, while DEEP FLIGHT and
DEEP FLIGHT AVIATOR may be highly maneuverable, it doesn’t seem to me that
they’re really doing anything that’s actually new or unique.
**********
The Need for Speed
Submarines are built for
a variety of reasons: modern nuclear missile subs dissuade large-scale
aggression through the promise of Mutually Assured Destruction (MAD); research
subs like ALVIN explore deep wrecks like the RMS TITANIC; tourist subs like the
ATLANTIS carry passengers on shallow excursions to the ocean’s floor, and so
on.
Homebuilt submarines have
been achieved to serve various purposes, too: my NAUTILUS MINISUB was built to
prove the feasibility of the Goff-Disney design; and Karl Stanley’s CBUG gave
tourists a more personalized submarine experience. Some of my other friends have built subs as a learning tool, to
prove they could do it, and just for the fun of it. It seems the reasons why submarines are built are almost as
numerous as the types of submarines themselves.
Karl Stanley’s new sub,
IDABEL, was designed and built to operate at a particular divesite alongside a
steep and deep sea wall; and he has hopes of one day building another
submersible to set a new World’s Solo Depth record. Karl is adamant about going deep: “If you’re only going to
100 feet, you might as well make a SCUBA dive”, he told me. I have a lot of respect for Karl, and I do
see what he means. Then again, I also
see reasons for developing boats with capabilities other than extreme depth:
like high speed and long endurance, for instance.
A while ago I was talking
with my friend Tom “Doc” Rowe about his Variable Attitude Submersible
Hydrofoil known as THE BIONIC DOLPHIN.
Tom and his partner Dennis “Dusty” Kaiser built this amazing craft
because they thought it would be fun to go zooming around in a boat capable of
fast trans-environmental operations.
They succeeded admirably, too.
The DOLPHIN can run at high speed on the surface, submerge for short
runs, and leap into the air like it’s living namesake. Obviously, going fast underwater is a
concept Doc Rowe likes.
So, one day we got to
talking about the possibility of an “underwater dragster”: a vehicle built for
the single purpose of seeing how fast a manned submersible could go. At the time we were also participating on a
website submarine discussion group, and the subject came up there. Obviously we drew a lot of ridicule from
people who don’t build submarines, but Doc and I (and a few others) knew the
idea had merit.
There are all kinds of
World manned speed records: fastest airplane, land speed, fastest boat,
etc. What about the fastest
submarine? From what I can tell, the Guinness
Book of World Records doesn’t have any such classification, so it looks
like it’s wide open for anyone who wants to try to set a record. But what might that record be? How fast has man gone before?
In 1940, the
Perhydrol-fueled WALTER V-80 hit speeds as high as 26 knots while completely
submerged and operating on internal systems alone (no schnorkel). At the time, conventional subs were doing 6
to 8 knots underwater on battery-motor propulsion.
Nowadays, the fastest
submarines are Navy boats that achieve speeds in excess of 35 or 40 knots on
nuclear power. (I’ll bet they’re faster,
but they aren’t telling and I don’t blame ‘em!) So with that in mind, if we want to establish a manned underwater
speed record, how do we go about it? We
know we’re going to have to develop a scenario in which a sub goes at least
faster than, say, 50 knots: but since (as far as we know) this has never been
done before, just how that boat will be configured, and how the feat will be
accomplished, is open to development.
The idea Doc and I were
kicking around was for an underwater dragster that would be timed through a
measured quarter mile, either from a standing or rolling start, depending on
how we decide to do it. Another
concept might be something a bit further: say, a “flying mile” or two, or maybe
five or more?
Obviously, the systems
used to achieve these goals might be very different from each other, and
designed to meet specific needs; but the required technologies exist and it can
be done. In any case, I think a primary
requirement should be that the submarine must operate on internal systems while
completely submerged, and mustn’t “cheat” through the use of a snorkel or other
device enabling it to breathe air from the surface. The record-setting run must be performed with the boat
entirely underwater.
What’s the point of all this? Well, the technological genesis of most vehicles has always involved improvements in performance. Besides being a lot of fun, the development of an “underwater dragster” would no doubt engender advancements in general submersibles with practical benefits for both civil and military applications.
As Chuck Yeager said: “We
are entering the ugh-known here.”
How fast can a submersible go?
Water is about 800 times more dense than air is, and is virtually
non-compressible: will we run into some kind of “speed barrier” that our hulls
simply can’t penetrate, and beyond which acceleration becomes impossible due to
the overwhelming opposition of drag?
How must a hull be built and reinforced to survive the additional stresses
that movement through a fluid mass at extreme velocities will impart? At what speed will a hull, designed to
survive at a certain depth, fail and implode under the additional hydrodynamic
stress? How do we calculate such a
failure point, if it does in fact exist?
These questions and others are among those we will have to answer as we
push forward in the quest for greater speed underwater.
At present I am working
on a high performance submersible I call THE HYPERSUB II. My goal is to build the World’s fastest
submarine, bar none. I intend to go
faster than any manned submarine has ever gone before. Anybody want to race?
(NOTE: This article was written before supercavitation
took high speed submersibles to a new level.
If it sounds dated now, that’s why.
Stand by for something more up-to-date to follow when priorities
permit. Pat Regan, October 2004.)
**********
The
NAUTILUS MINISUB
World’s
First (and still the only) Real Submarine of Disney NAUTILUS Configuration in
any Scale.
I’m frequently asked how
and why I built the NAUTILUS MINISUB.
People also want to know what, if any, significance the submarine
has. I’ll try to address those issues
here; but first, I’ve got to lay down a foundation of background information.
I was born and raised in
California, and have always had a love for the ocean in general, and aquatic
sports in particular. Like a lot of
“baby boomers”, as a young boy I was very much impressed by Walt Disney’s movie
version of Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea: it started an
interest in underwater technologies that stayed with me all my life.
As a boy, I was always
tinkering with things: working on bicycles, making scooters and skateboards,
flying model airplanes, working on mini-bikes and go-carts, and so on. I made my own skin diving mask from a
surplus gas mask in the 1950’s. Got
into surfing and scuba diving in the 60’s, and was a varsity swimmer in
school. As a teen, my interest turned
toward automobiles and motorcycles, and I worked for one summer at an airport
where I got my first real exposure to general aviation as a mechanic’s
assistant.
After a hitch in the
Marine Corps, I went to work in the automobile manufacturing industry to
support myself, and worked on cars, trucks, and motorcycles as a hobby. I also got into skydiving, and was soon
assisting the mechanics working on jump planes. Eventually, I bought and modified my own airplane; so when I say
“I’ve worked on everything from skateboards to aircraft” I’m not kidding. But the point here is not to laud my accomplishments;
it is merely to point out that all my life I’ve been working with mechanical
technologies, and gained a lot of practical experience that proved valuable
when I decided to build a submarine.
In the 1970’s I got the
invention bug, and built a small backyard R&D facility where we worked on
prototype devices we hoped would make us rich: aerodynamics, anemodynamics, and
electronics were some of the areas we researched in our quest for fame and
fortune. Times were more thin than
thick, as you might imagine.
We renovated our facility
and included a swimming pool where we got serious about experimenting with
underwater technologies. We built and
successfully tested improved snorkels, rebreathers, air-supplied diving helmets,
human-powered swimming machines, wetsubs, ambient subs, and Air Independent
Propulsion systems, among other things.
Ultimately, I came up with an idea for a high performance submersible
that I called THE HYPERSUB, and got started building it.
I had the basic steel
pressure hull of the HYPERSUB pretty much finished when, one night, I was
designing a crash bar to protect the pilot’s front windows from impact with
floating debris. I did a crude sketch,
and visualized the boat running awash at high speed, and the image of Captain
Nemo’s NAUTILUS from Disney’s 20,000 Leagues came to mind. Since that movie started my interest in
underwater technologies in the first place, I was immediately compelled to try
to build a functional NAUTILUS. I did a
basic design study and calculated what it would take to build a NAUTILUS
replica hull around the HYPERSUB pressure hull. It was close, but the numbers said it might just be
possible. From that moment on, the HYPERSUB
project became the NAUTILUS MINISUB.
What’s so special about
this particular sub? Well, a few
things, really. For one, there had
never been a functional manned submarine of Disney NAUTILUS configuration in
any scale: only models and stage sets.
A few people told me they thought the design was unfeasible: that a
free-roving sub of this style would either be top heavy or tail heavy, and
unstable in the water. But the numbers
indicated it could be done; and though I was self-taught in design math, I
believed my calculations were correct.
Another thing I think is
special about this sub is the general era in which it was created, and what the
state-of-the-art of homebuilt submarines was at that time. When I started talking about building
submarines, most people thought I was nuts; said it couldn’t be done. In fact, I didn’t know anyone else who had
done it, and the few subs that had been built prior to this were fairly well
unadvertised. There was no HOW-TO
MANUAL on homebuilt submarines, so I had to make my own up as I went along. There was no computer Internet at the time, so
everything I needed to know came through my own research at the library,
experimentation with systems test models in the pool, and my own experience as
a diver.
It wasn’t until after the
NAUTILUS MINISUB was finished and operational that I learned about a submarine
called DENNOCH, which had been built from a converted propane tank by four
Stanford University engineering students.
On the tailfin of their boat, they painted the motto: “Because it can’t
be done.” I suppose they were answering
the question of why they built their sub; but their statement serves to
illustrate the general public mindset towards homebuilt submersibles at the
time: they were so few in number, and so scarcely publicized, that most people
figured they were impossible. Suffice
it to say I received a lot of heckling about my project, but I was determined
to see it through.
What made the NAUTILUS
MINISUB especially difficult (in comparison to more “basic” subs like DENNOCH)
was the complexity of the weight and balance calculations. Building a sub is like a mathematical jigsaw
puzzle: everything has to be of a certain size, weight, and strength; it all
must fit together, and in the end it’s got to balance on a pinpoint or the
thing won’t work. That’s hard enough
with a simple cylindrical hull adapted with a single tower; but when we
consider the modified teardrop shape of the HYPERSUB pressure hull and its
naviform cabin modification; and then complicate that further with all the
ornamental metalwork necessary to make it a NAUTILUS replica (tailfins, keel,
rakers, ram, and so on) the math became a lot more difficult.
Remaining within the visual constraints of the Disney Design added still more challenges to the project. Hiding things like the hatch, for instance; and making the boat operational while limited to a very shallow freeboard; required a lot of creative thought. In the end, I managed to find room for a pilot and passenger, air system, E-motor, guidance controls, sonar, and a hydrobatic ballast system that would give the sub exceptional attitude control.
Actually doing all that
ornamental metal work (literally cutting all those rakers and fins out of steel
and forming them to shape by hand) increased the workload of this sub (over what
the HYPERSUB would have required) at least three-fold. More than a manned submarine, the NAUTILUS
MINISUB is very much a work of functional art metal sculpture. I can’t think of another all-metal homebuilt
submarine design that comes close to being as aesthetically intricate as this
one is.
So in terms of
mathematical complexity, design constraints, hydrobatic ballast capabilities,
and the additional ornamental metal work required to produce a functional
NAUTILUS replica, this sub was pretty far advanced over contemporary homebuilts
at the time.
The close ratio between
weight and buoyancy, and the possible variables in the weights of steel, were
especially daunting factors. Throughout
the project, we were always worried about it being too heavy. It took a lot (400+ pages worth) of
design and re-design to get it all to come out right. But what was really scary was the fact that there was only a very
small difference between floating on the surface and submerging at neutral
buoyancy; and there can be a ten percent variable in the weights of steel,
depending on who makes it and where it comes from. I weighed what I could as the project was
coming along; but I was never able to actually weigh the entire submarine; so
for the most part I had to rely on estimates and calculations alone. Everything I did was based on self-taught
math, and calculation methods I devised myself based on what seemed right to
me. Still, even if I was precise in my
calculations, that old “10% gremlin” was always lurking nearby, ready to
turn my hopes into failure when it came time to put the boat into the
water. So, there was plenty of room for
self-doubt, but I plowed ahead on blind faith anyway.
Working with such a heavy
project alone in my backyard wasn’t easy, either. A sub usually weighs tons, and this boat was no exception. One develops an appreciation for the Egyptian
Pyramid Builders when doing something like this, and learns to devise his
own machines and methods for dealing with large heavy objects without getting
crushed. Beyond building the submarine,
I had to make a lot of tools and equipment to be able to build the sub.
In the final analysis, it
took about 2-1/2 years of developmental research, followed by another 2-1/2
years of continual metalwork and on-going redesign, through all kinds of
weather, with many people telling me I couldn’t do it, and a couple people
actually trying their best to stop me.
As if the work itself wasn’t hard enough, my family also suffered
personal tragedies and I incurred numerous injuries throughout the course of
the project. There were days when I
thought I’d never see the boat finished.
I was pretty much exhausted and in poor physical condition from the
continual grind when one day, much to my surprise, I had reached the part of
the worklist that read, “Proceed to Float Test Number One.”
We needed a high tide to
float the sub off the trailer at the nearby Marina Launch Ramp; and that first
opportunity came at about 05:00 hours on a cold morning in March of 1991. I got about 45 minutes of sleep the night
before, due to last minute preparations.
When the alarm clock rang, I wanted to roll over and go back to sleep. I was dog-tired, and not totally thrilled
about the prospects of doing something this morning that might cost my
life. (There are a lot of ways a guy
can get killed testing an experimental homebuilt submarine.) But what I was most afraid of was the thought
that it might not float, and all those who’d predicted my failure would make me
the laughing stock of the small town in which I lived. So I hit the snooze alarm and laid there for
a moment or two thinking about it. But
it was out of my hands already. I had
come this far with it. I had to see it
through. So we got up in the early-morning
darkness, hauled the sub to the Marina, and conducted the first operational
proving test.
Over the next five
months, we conducted a series of nine proving tests, including seven dives in
zero visibility water. When we were
done the sub was a complete success.
And that design math I was worried about? Well, as it turned out, all she was missing
was the weight I’d allocated for the passenger. We hit the weight-and-balance right on the head; and our calculations
were accurate to within one pound. Not
bad for a self-taught homebuilt subber, eh?
In building the NAUTILUS
MINISUB, we proved to ourselves and everyone else that we could do it. In successfully operating the boat, we
proved the Disney NAUTILUS design was indeed feasible as a manned, free-roving,
pressure-hull-type submarine: something that had not been done before, and a
feat which hasn’t been duplicated since.
Nowadays, our NAUTILUS MINISUB serves as the “symbol” of VULCANIA
SUBMARINE. We are known internationally
through the World Wide Web, and we continue to get fan mail on a regular
basis.
Today, we still have the
World’s only functional submarine of Disney NAUTILUS configuration in any
scale. And wherever she’s been seen,
the boat brings smiles to the faces of those who love the movie and this
particular sub design as much as we do.
To me, that alone makes it worth all the time, expense, and effort it
took to build this submarine. But
that’s only the beginning.
Because of our success
with the NAUTILUS MINISUB, we chose Hawaii as a new home base for VULCANIA
SUBMARINE; and here we are busy working on other projects. I am refurbishing this sub in preparation
for a video we hope to shoot soon.
We’ve built the NEMOSUIT, which will be the subject of another article
here in the JOURNAL; we’ve made a lot of new friends, are in the process of
building THE NAUTILUS DIVER, and have still more diving suits and submarines in
the works. Our HOMEBUILT SUBMARINE
HOW-TO MANUAL is being prepared for distribution, and the end of all this is nowhere
in sight.
And so the story has come
full circle. Like many of my era, I saw
20,000 Leagues as a boy and dreamt of sailing beneath the sea like
Captain Nemo. Today, in my own small
way, I’m living that childhood dream in my spare time. We all have dreams, but not all of us get to
see them come true. I’m one of the
lucky ones, I guess.
We at VULCANIA SUBMARINE
hope you will enjoy seeing our projects as much as we enjoy building and
operating them. In one very real sense,
you are a big part of the reason why we do what we do.
“MOBILIS IN MOBILI”
ADNOTE December 2007: Since this article was first
published, a couple things have happened that might call into question our
claim that the NAUTILUS MINISUB is “still the only” real submarine of Disney
NAUTILUS configuration in any scale.
1. A few years ago, a green vessel turned up on
eBay and was quickly embraced by a few non-subbers as “another Disney NAUTILUS
submarine”. As most people recognized:
the vessel in question didn’t possess even a marginal resemblance to the
Disney NAUTILUS; and was not a functional submersible. Therefore, it was not a Disney NAUTILUS
submarine.
2. More recently, Herve Jaubert’s Dubai-based
company produced a 10-place tourist submersible called the EXOMOS NAUTILUS. Many have called this a Disney NAUTILUS
submarine; but this commercial submersible (which does appear somewhat
Nautilus-like in some regards) is not a Disney NAUTILUS.
Fact is, Jaubert himself
says his boat is not a Disney NAUTILUS replica, and he prefers that people do
not refer to it as such. Herve went to
great lengths, and included numerous major design modifications, to ensure that
the EXOMOS NAUTILUS would not be visually confused with a Disney NAUTILUS. By intent of the builder, the visual differences
between the EXOMOS and Disney NAUTILUS are sufficient to avoid
infringement. And if it can’t infringe,
it can’t be a Disney NAUTILUS.
In contrast, I always
intended for the NAUTILUS MINISUB to be a manned scale Disney NAUTILUS replica;
I tried my best to emulate the design as represented in the published Disney
plans; and I have consistently represented it as such. Furthermore, the Disney CEO, the President
of Disney Imagineering, and attorneys of the Disney Legal Department all agreed
with me in writing that my boat “is a visually accurate depiction of the Disney
NAUTILUS”.
And that’s why I continue
to say, “The NAUTILUS MINISUB is the World’s First, and still the only, real
submarine of Disney NAUTILUS configuration in any scale.”
Personally, I think the
EXOMOS NAUTILUS is a beautiful submarine, and I’d like to take a ride in
it. It’s not a Disney NAUTILUS, but I
wouldn’t mind if it was. I’m coming up on
my 17th anniversary as the World’s only Disney NAUTILUS submarine
pilot, but that doesn’t mean I covet that distinction, or that I don’t want to
see someone else earn their wings. In
fact, I encourage others to build manned-scale submersibles, and have provided
technical assistance to individuals who said they wanted to build a manned
scale Disney NAUTILUS submarine. I
welcome the day when someone else finally succeeds. But so far, it hasn’t happened yet.
**********
The NEMOSUIT
World’s
First Functional Replica of Disney’s 20,000 Leagues Diving Gear.
As a follow-up to the article above on the NAUTILUS MINISUB, I’ll take this opportunity to answer frequently asked questions about our recent project, the NEMOSUIT: what it is, why and how we built it, what our plans are, and so on.
Several years ago I was
participating in a few Internet Website Discussion groups dealing with
underwater technologies and homebuilt subs.
I was displaying my NAUTILUS and going by the nickname “Captain Nemo”
back then. Experienced subbers would
share information about their projects, and aspiring subbers could seek help
in getting started, and for the most
part it was pretty cool. I made contact
with some really great people that way, and one in particular was TY ALLEY.
At the time, Ty was an
experienced diver and also interested in building a submarine, so we got
started swapping email about technical questions, and we hit it off right from
the start. We both had a lot of
enthusiasm for diving and subs, and our sense of humor was pretty much the
same, too. Like a lot of folks, Ty
really liked Disney’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, and said he thought
my NAUTILUS MINISUB was pretty cool, too.
So through the course of a lot of email, we became friends over the
Internet.
I didn’t know it at the
time, but Ty turned out to be one of those guys who does more than just talk
about stuff: he gets all the way involved.
One day he wrote and told me that he’d acquired the AQUALA SPORTS
MANUFACTURING COMPANY, and had his shop set up in Shreveport, Louisiana. For those who might not know, AQUALA is probably
the premier maker of drysuits for diving use in the United States, and was the
company who built the rubber suits used by Disney in the filming of 20,000
Leagues way back in 1954.
We got to talking about
the Disney Divers, and Ty said, “If you ever want to make a functional Captain
Nemo diving rig to go along with your submarine, I can make the drysuit for
you. I’ve got the patterns and
materials.”
I had been making my own skin
diving gear and replicas of Captain Nemo’s diving suit since my early youth;
the idea of making a real one had always appealed to me. So I thought making a Captain Nemo diving
suit was a great idea, but at the time I was working on the submarine and trying
to get things together for a program the DISCOVERY CHANNEL wanted to shoot, and
I just didn’t have the time to get into any new projects.
Time passed, the company
producing the Discovery Channel show changed their mind about sending an
underwater film crew all the way to Hawaii, and that project went down the
drain. About that time I started
thinking about making a Leagues-related project I might finish in a short
period of time: and I got started making a fiberglass replica of Captain Nemo’s
diving helmet. I was pretty much
finished with the prototype, and starting to organize the shop to make molds
and produce replicas. I did a
logistical study of what it would cost to tool-up my metal-oriented shop to do
fiberglass casting work, and it wasn’t going to be cheap. Considering I was already set up to work
with metal, I figured it might be just about as easy to turn out an actual
diving helmet like Nemo’s. I decided to
do that, and began the R&D to make patterns and replicate the original
Disney metalwork. Later, I started
thinking about taking it one step further.
I contacted Ty again by email, and asked if his offer of making a
drysuit for my Nemo project was still good, and he was all for it. Ty offered me a good price on the drysuit,
too. So I figured, “Why not go all the
way?” And that’s how the NEMOSUIT
project got started.
I bought a brand new
deep-sea diving helmet and began researching ways to aspirate it from
SCUBA. Ty went to work fabricating the
rubber drysuit in Louisiana. Meanwhile,
I also bought a set of a set of 16-inch high-top diving boots from Ken Downey
at the MORSE DIVING COMPANY in Boston.
So the project was really getting underway.
At first, while waiting
for delivery on the Aquala drysuit, I made my own homemade diving garment
(called the “Lo-quala”) for use with the helmet, and experimented underwater
with modern regulators to aspirate the helmet and provide a reserve
backup. Then, I found a pony bottle on
eBay that looked like the ones used in the movie. I bought it and eventually decided to go with an all-authentic
air system: vintage AQUA MASTER double-hose regulator, steel duals with
manifold, and so on.
When the Aquala suit
finally arrived I was absolutely thrilled: Ty’s work is nothing less than
excellent, and he really put his best efforts into it. As time went on and we communicated more, we
became more than manufacturer and client, we became good friends.
In October 2002 Ty
attended an HDS show in Santa Barbara,
and was approached by some pretty big names in the diving equipment business
who said they were interested in making LEAGUES gear. (An interesting coincidence?
Who knows?) Anyway, Ty handed
them the printed flier I’d made about the NEMOSUIT, and explained that I was
already doing that very thing. As time
went on, I heard from a few people that they were also interested in building
something like what I was working on; and Ty did sell at least one drysuit to
someone interested in making his own LEAGUES rig; but as far as I know, nobody
ever followed through on it.
Working alone (as always)
in my small shop; and doing endless hours of research on the internet; I
continued to overcome one obstacle at a time: finishing the helmet, pony bottle
system, regulator fairing, and all the other parts that combined to make the
NEMO rig. If I said it wasn’t a lot of
work, I’d be lying. I knew the helmet
was going to be difficult, but what I hadn’t counted on was how difficult the
regulator fairing was. It turned out I
needed to cut and shape more than 80 pieces of metal to form the structure; not
to mention the metal framework needed to mount it to the tanks. Suffice it to say, when it was all finished,
I was pretty happy to see it come to a conclusion. That was in January of 2003 as I recall without checking my
records; and the NEMOSUIT project had taken me about seven months to complete.
A creation is always more than the sum of its parts. What you see is the finished NEMO suit. What you don’t see is all the hours spent searching the computer, chasing down and buying parts and equipment, experimenting with systems, working on design development, making the tooling necessary to make parts with, and then the actual work needed to fabricate the components from scratch. It takes a lot of time, effort, and money to do something like this; but when it’s done, you have the satisfaction of knowing you have the only one of its kind in the World, and that’s pretty satisfying. Moreover, other people enjoy seeing it, and that’s cool, too.
After the work was finished, the next thing was to prove it worked; so I performed a series of underwater tests of the completed helmet and air system in our swimming pool at home, and was pleased to note that everything worked exactly as expected. Now, we were ready for an ocean dive. In all, it would take some preparation, and require quite a few people, because this would be an event requiring launch and recovery personnel, camera-persons, safety divers, and so on.
I ended up getting my Nemosuit
featured in some magazines, on several websites, and in the Summer of 2003 we
sent a display to an event called the 20,000 LEAGUES UNDER THE SEA EXPO
in Anaheim, California. There, the
display was signed by BILL STROPAHL, one of the original Disney divers who
performed the underwater scenes during the filming of LEAGUES in 1954. Bill was kind enough to autograph my
display, and we are proud to have it showcased here in our home.
In August of 2003, after
the NEMOSUIT had been proven successful, we got together with ACE PARNELL: a
well-known and very experienced commercial diver now living in Kona,
Hawaii. I let Ace dive the rig in
Keauhou Harbor for his 60th Birthday. A great time was had by all, and you can see pictures of Ace’s
dive here at VSC on the page entitled DIVING THE NEMOSUIT IN HAWAII.
But before that dive took
place, and by the time we sent the VULCANIA SUBMARINE display to the 20,000
LEAGUES EXPO, I was already well along with another companion project: the
NAUTILUS DIVER. That, however, is
another story…………
**********
The
NAUTILUS DIVER
The
Next Stride in Recreating Disney’s 20,000 Leagues Diving Gear.
The NEMOSUIT
was a companion project for the NAUTILUS MINISUB, and the NAUTILUS DIVER is an
extension of that line of endeavor. At first,
I thought the DIVER would be easier than the NEMO, since we’d already done the
one suit beforehand. The exact opposite
proved to be true, however. The DIVER
project required all the tooling and preparation of the NEMO, and then some.
The manufacture of the
crown assembly proved to be especially difficult. I didn’t want to make just one: I wanted to produce the tooling
to make crown assemblies, and that involved a lot more time, work, and expense. And, I could have made it easier on myself
by “cheating” and casting the assembly out of fiberglass or the like; but I
wanted this to be a functional helmet in keeping with the Disney method of
all-metal construction; so fiberglass was out.
In the end, we had to equip our shop with a blast furnace and forging
equipment to produce some of the parts we’d need.
As before, I bought a
drysuit from TY ALLEY of the AQUALA SPORTS MANUFACTURING COMPANY for the
NAUTILUS DIVER. Again, we were
especially happy to have AQUALA make this suit for us, as they were the
original parent company that produced the suits used by Disney back in 1954.
Another Disney supplier,
the MORSE DIVING COMPANY of Massachusetts, had produced the high-top boots we
bought and modified for the NEMO, and I went to them again for the DIVER project. Many thanks to KEN DOWNEY and the fine
people at MORSE for their excellent customer support all along the way.
The SCUBA, of course, is
all vintage equipment based on a set of twin steel 72’s connected by a US
DIVERS manifold, and breathing through an AQUA LUNG two hose regulator like
Disney used. Some of it was bought on
eBay, and other parts came from our principal dive supplier (fittingly), the
NAUTILUS DIVE SHOP in Hilo, Hawaii.
Bill DeRooy has always been most helpful to us in all our diving needs,
and helped us a lot with both the NEMO and DIVER projects.
When it came to small
parts of the system, I tried to pay as much attention to detail as
possible. The diver’s knife is the same
as Disney’s crew wore in the movie. The
belt is a reproduction of an authentic 1860’s piece made for Civil War
re-enactors, and so are the black leather gauntlets: which makes them accurate
in style to the time period 20,000 LEAGUES is based upon.
The “spools” comprising
what I’ve always called the “air filter” atop the DIVER’s visor are authentic
antiques of the type used by Disney back in 1954: the company that made the
originals went out of business, and parts like this are hard to find.
On all of the surviving
Disney helmets I’ve seen, the rubber hoses attached to the “air filter” have
long since rotted away, and the original manufacturer no longer produces
them. Resultantly, I’ve seen them
replaced with a simple expedient: hoses from surplus gas masks. Most people can’t tell the difference, but I
didn’t want to settle for anything less than authenticity if I didn’t have
to. So, I searched for and found a
company that makes accurate reproductions of the original-type hoses for people
who restore antique diving gear. Again,
this took more time, work, and money; but now mine is the only LEAGUES helmet
on the planet presently sporting hoses that look like they are supposed to.
Altogether, The NAUTILUS
DIVER took about 16 months from start to finish. The NEMOSUIT only took seven months. But my DIVER replica is more accurate than what’s presently on
display at Disney theme parks around the World; and, I have the required
tooling to make more helmets, should the need arise. So as far as I am concerned, it was worth it.
Plans for the future
include diving the NAUTILUS MINISUB, NEMOSUIT, and NAUTILUS DIVER all together
in Hawaii, and filming the event for a Vulcania Submarine Video. I am also thinking of making a photographic
reproduction of the original Disney movie poster from 20,000 LEAGUES, using
NEMO, the DIVER, and the NAUTILUS in the distance behind them.
My LEAGUES projects exist
because (1) I really enjoyed the movie as a kid; and (2) it’s a lot of fun
owning and diving them. I used to
dangle a spaceman toy clad in clay Nemo gear in a water tank; and now I have
the real thing. These are one-of-a-kind
works of functional art: the only working specimens of this type in the
World. As I’ve said before, it’s kind
of neat having something nobody else has.
But the greatest satisfaction I get comes from showing them to other
people who enjoy seeing us on the Internet, or in the water.
As you might imagine, the
appearance of functional versions of the submarine and diving suits from 20,000
LEAGUES UNDER THE SEA never fails to attract crowds of enthusiastic
spectators with great big grins on their faces. And I enjoy that a lot.
To me, that’s a large part of what this is all about.
Please be sure to check
the pages here at VULCANIASUBMARINE.COM showing how we developed, built, and tested
the NAUTILUS MINISUB, NEMOSUIT, and NAUTILUS DIVER projects. And if you have any questions or comments,
don’t hesitate to email us.
**********
Statistics
VulcaniaSubmarine.Com
is the number one Disney NAUTILUS website in the World.
This
is a “free” website: anyone can visit and we do not require you to sign up to a
membership to view what we have here.
For
those searching Disney Nautilus on all of the major (and some secondary)
search engines (Yahoo!, Lycos, AltaVista, Google, Metacrawler, Mamma, etc.)
VulcaniaSubmarine.Com is number one on the list of user-frequented
websites. We also lead in searches of Homebuilt
Submarine and Homebuilt Submersibles.
On
all search engines, we have at least one and sometimes as many as three or four
other websites (friends) dedicated to our work showing up in the top ten.
Server
statistics show that we are being seen in over 54 different countries
Worldwide. Every week I find new
websites in other countries (Italy, Spain, Russia, Malaysia, China, etc.) that
are featuring our website on their pages.
Stats
show many of our visitors come from Disney related website groups. When I follow the thread back to its origin,
I find very favorable discussions going on about our website and our work. People in the Disney community use words
like “impressive” when they speak of VSC, and express amazement over our
submarine, diving suits, and pages dedicated to 20,000 Leagues exhibits at
Disney theme parks. We are pleased!
According
to server statistics: In the past, we have averaged upwards of 60,000 hits per
week from viewers around the World: that’s over three million hits per year.
In
the recent weeks since the NAUTILUS DIVER PROJECT was completed, our server
stats show a jump to over 105,000 hits per week; if that trend continues, it
will project out to almost 5.5 million hits per year! Not bad for a website that started in 2001 with an annual traffic
count of about 350 hits per year, eh?
I
just want to say “THANK YOU!!!” to all of you who visit this site. I trust you enjoy what you find here. The MESSAGE BOARD is still down, because
frankly I’m too busy working in the shop to monitor it right now. Maybe it will be back again in the
future. In the meantime, if you have
any comments, questions, or suggestions about things you’d like to see featured
here at VSC, please feel free to submit your thoughts via the EMAIL TO THE
WEBMASTER function.
Very Best Regards,
Pat Regan
Hawaii
ADNOTE, December 2007: Long after publishing this article, I learned that position on search engine lists can be controlled by manipulating the code by which a website is represented on the Internet; and in other ways, as well. I’ve never used them, but there are companies out there who, for a fee, will guarantee you top position in the search engine lists. So, being at the top of a search engine list does not necessarily mean one website is better than another, any more than the inverse might be true. I stand corrected.
**********
Building the NEMO II
An
‘Honest-to-Goff’ Functional Replica of Captain Nemo’s Diving Helmet.
2003
was a great year for us at Vulcania Submarine: we completed our NEMOSUIT
project; we sent a display of our work to the 20,000 Leagues Expo
in Anaheim, California: we were well underway with our second Leagues
diving rig project, the NAUTILUS DIVER; and we filmed ocean diving operations
with the NEMOSUIT here in Hawaii.
We
completed the DIVER in 2004, drawing favorable reviews from members of the
Helmet Diving and 20,000 Leagues communities. During this period, we also received inquiries asking how much we
might sell our replica Leagues Diving Suits for. Our answer was always the same: “These are one-of-a-kind works of
functional art; they were created for art’s sake and for our own personal
use. They are not for sale.”
But
art being a continuing process of improvement, we wanted to move on to correct
some of the inconsistencies we noticed in our first NEMO helmet. Work on the NEMO II was facilitated by several factors: (1) I already
had another brand new Asian diving helmet, ready to be modified; (2) in the
months following the creation of the first NEMOSUIT, I had acquired additional
(and superior) graphic reference materials (including some made by
Disney Production Designer Harper Goff himself) and had already done some
design development work toward a second (and more accurate) NEMO helmet; (3) I
had all the tooling left over from the NEMOSUIT and NAUTILUS DIVER projects,
and would not need much more to accomplish the new design; and (4) I already
had my sources of material and parts supply, as well as my production methods
and procedures, well-organized and ready-to-go. With this, I launched headlong into creating a replacement for
my soon-to-be-departed CAPTAIN NEMO helmet.
In
the months that followed, I devoted most every available moment to the
completion of this new project. When I
finally reached the end of the work list, I photographed my new creation,
compared them to pictures of the original Disney Nemo helmet, and was
happy with what I saw. Seeking
confirmation, I disclosed the new helmet to an authority with intimate
knowledge of the real Disney Nemo, and his opinion was, “You haven’t
just come close with this one. This
time you’re totally on target.”
We
have all seen scale models of the Leagues technologies described as
“exact replicas” of the originals. But in
every case, there was something we could point to that wasn’t quite like the
“Real McCoy”; and if the artists who made those replicas will be honest about
it, they’ll have to admit that’s true.
So I will not stand here and say my NEMO II is an “exact replica” of Disney’s Hero. I believe all such claims are presumptuous
when it comes to replicas engendered by processes wherein the human mind relays
information from eyes to hands, which then do the work of replication. But that process is not a bad thing; it’s
art.
Until
someone puts one of the Disney originals into a machine that can scan it in its
entirety and transmit that information to a computerized mill capable of
turning out precise copies, a truly “exact replica” has yet to be seen. And if that ever does happen, the result
will be “photocopies” rather than works of art, because art is the direct
expression of the soul, and machines do not have souls.
Until
mechanization replaces artistic expression, we must still content ourselves
with the handiwork of human craftsmen who put something into their work no
machine can ever provide: a bit of themselves.
But to my way of thinking, therein lie both the challenge and the beauty
of this particular artform. Harper
Goff’s creations were handcrafted by people, and reflect both human strengths
and frailties; and that is still (and I think rightfully so) very much a
part of every Leagues replica I’ve ever seen.
Artists
strive for perfection, knowing that it may be beyond their reach; but they continue
to try anyway. Insodoing, they live and
grow; and hopefully, their work improves with each attempt. That’s what art is all about. It’s a human thing: the difference
between a photograph and a masterful painting.
One conveys the appearance of the subject with cold mechanical
precision; the other expresses a part of the human spirit. One hundred years from now, someone may look
upon my humble efforts and appreciate the fact that I built these things all by
myself, in a modest backyard shop, by hand.
No photocopy will ever evoke that same emotion in the human heart.
Now
that the NEMO II is done, will I
try to build yet another? Of course I
will. And another NAUTILUS DIVER? Sure, why not? What’s the point? The
point is to strive: as the song says, “to reach the unreachable star”. For me, that’s what it’s all about.
To
quote an old saw: “Oftentimes, getting there isn’t as important as going.” I, for one, intend to enjoy the ride, and
allow myself to be continually challenged by what I attempt next. And I hope others will continue to do the
same. Our handcrafted Leagues
replicas may not be “Memorex”, but as long as they are “Honest-to-Goff”
I believe Harper would have approved.
**********
Scale
Speed
For the purposes of this discussion, I'm talking about scale model submarines. Generally, when it comes to scale models, there are three kinds of speed:
1. ACTUAL SPEED is the velocity of the scale model relative to the full-sized "real world" environment.
2. SCALE SPEED is the velocity of the model relative to a theoretical scale environment.
3. CORRESPONDING SPEED is the velocity of the model necessary to produce a realistic hydrodynamic effect: a bow wave or control reactions, for example.
To calculate ACTUAL SPEED, all we'd have to do is: know how many inches long our model is; use a stopwatch (or other suitable
chronometer) to time how many seconds it takes to drive past a fixed point; divide inches by seconds to get Inches Per Second; multiply by 60 to get Inches Per Minute; multiply by 60 to get Inches Per Hour; divide by 12 to get Feet Per Hour; divide by 5,280 to get Miles Per Hour. And if we want to convert that into Knots, divide by 1.15. That would tell us the ACTUAL SPEED at which the model is traveling in "real time".
Or, we could just time how long the model actually takes to travel a fixed distance, and figure it out that way. Same result.
But we might want to calculate SCALE SPEED if we were working for, say, Disney; and were making a large-scale diorama of, say, the San Francisco Bay. If we wanted a scale submarine on the surface to cruise past a scale model of the Golden Gate Bridge, and we wanted that relative movement to look realistic in comparison to the scale environment, we'd need to calculate the correct SCALE SPEED relative to "scale time and distance". In that case, the formula would be:
(Where): Vk = Actual Velocity in Knots; S= Scale; and Vs= Scale Velocity ("scale speed" expressed in inches per second)
Vk X 1.15 X 5,280 -:- 60 -:- 60 -:- S X 12 = Vs
Since it's difficult to write math symbols in this format, I'll explain that in terms.
Take the actual velocity of a real submarine in knots; multiply that by 1.15 to convert Knots into Miles Per Hour; multiply MPH by 5,280 to get Feet Per Hour; divide FPH by 60 to get Feet Per Minute; divide FPM by 60 to determine how many Feet Per Second the real submarine is moving. Now, divide the real sub's velocity expressed in FPS by the Scale of the model we want to build; and multiply that by 12 to determine SCALE SPEED expressed in Inches Per Second.
If we use that formula; and if a real submarine passes the bridge in, say, 60 seconds; we'll know how many inches per second our scale model sub must move in real time to pass a scale model bridge in 60 seconds.
As they used to say on the old Monty Python show: "And now, for something entirely different!" ;-)
CORRESPONDING SPEED is a concept presented in 1868 by an English engineer named William Froude in his work LAW OF COMPARISON, where he also refers to it as "wave form speed". As I mentioned above, CORRESPONDING SPEED is the speed a scale model must move through water to create a realistic hydrodynamic effect: bow wave, control reactions, etc.
CORRESPONDING SPEED is what nautical engineers use when running scale model hulls through testing tanks.
Why do we need CORRESPONDING SPEED? Because while the size of the model is smaller than an actual boat, the size of the water molecules it interacts with does not change. We need to compensate for that relative difference between the hulls and the element they operate in.
The formula for CORRESPONDING SPEED is: Actual Speed divided by the square root of the Scale. Pretty simple, actually.
Let's do some sample problems to consider the difference between calculating SCALE SPEED and CORRESPONDING SPEED. For our example, let's say we're talking about a 1:96 scale Los Angeles 688 Class submarine; actual length 360 feet; scale length 45 inches.
We'll compute SCALE SPEED and CORRESPONDING SPEED for an LA sub moving, say, 30 knots.
SCALE SPEED:
30 kts X 1.15 X 5,280 -:- 60 -:- 60 -:- 96 X 12 = 6.3 IPS.
What this means is, if the real sub is moving 30 knots in relation to the real environment; and we want to simulate the movement of a scale model relative to a scale environment, the model will be moving at a SCALE SPEED of about 6.3 inches per second.
(That's what we meant in our example where we wanted to simulate the time it would take for the model sub to move past a model bridge or other fixed surface feature: in this case, we'd move the model at about 6.3 inches per second.)
But if we want to simulate the scale effect of how the sub interacts with water (how it generates a bow wave or responds to hydrodynamic control deflections), then we'd use the formula for CORRESPONDING SPEED.
We'll divide the actual speed in knots by the square root of the scale to determine CORRESPONDING SPEED:
The Scale is 96; the square root of 96 is 9.79795897. So:
30 kts -:- 9.79795897 = 3.06 kts CORRESPONDING SPEED.
In this instance, we want the 1:96 scale LA sub to generate a bow wave that looks similar in relative size to that produced by the full-sized sub moving at 30 knots, so we'll have to move our model at an actual speed of about 3.06 knots (about 3.5 MPH, or 61.6 IPS.)
So, now we can see there's a big difference between an ACTUAL SPEED of 30 Knots in comparison to SCALE SPEED and CORRESPONDING SPEED. In this case: SCALE SPEED is about 6.25 inches per second, while CORRESPONDING SPEED is about 61.6 inches per second.
SUMMARY: When dealing with scale model velocities, there are several things we might want to accomplish, and just as many methods of doing it. The preceding formulae enable us to calculate model velocities for any of the three main purposes described above.
**********
“Collision Speed…FULL!!”
Will the NAUTILUS MINISUB
receive an engine-driven hydrojet propulsion system?
INTRODUCTION
As I mentioned in previous articles: back in the 1980’s I built a working test model of a closed-circuit engine adapted to run underwater, and that project led to the construction of a steel pressure hull for a hi-performance submersible I called the HYPERSUB. Midstream in that project, I decided to build a manned Disney NAUTILUS replica instead, and that’s how the NAUTILUS MINISUB came to be.
I’ve been very happy with the NAUTILUS MINISUB, but always meant to improve appearance and functionality. After the proving tests, I wanted to finish the scale exterior detailing, and improve the various operational systems. But a change of locale, and changing priorities in life, impeded my progress.
One can be happy, and yet not satisfied. I was always happy with the fact that the NAUTILUS MINISUB worked well; but I was a little dissatisfied because the slow speeds she achieved were not very exciting to behold. When I first visualized the HYPERSUB running fast awash, it called to mind Captain Nemo’s NAUTILUS on the attack: and the NAUTILUS MINISUB was the result. Back then, it made sense to forego the closed-circuit engine in favor of making sure we could first produce a working NAUTILUS replica powered by an electric motor. But now that I’ve accomplished that, it’s time the project came full-circle and returned to its roots, so to speak.
At the time of this writing, much additional work has been done to the NAUTILUS MINISUB. The next time she takes to the sea, she will have improved scale detailing, life support, communications, and control systems. But perhaps best of all, she’ll have dual propulsion systems: a larger electric motor for silent maneuvering underwater; plus the drivetrain from a jetski for fast speeds on the surface, and short submerged runs.
This article documents the installation of an engine-driven hydrojet propulsion system in the NAUTILUS MINISUB; it is a work in progress, and will be written in stages as we move toward operational testing.
WE BEGIN
At first glance, installing a jetski drivetrain in our NAUTILUS seemed fairly straightforward. But as our understanding progressed, the physics behind how hydrojet pumps work, and their suitability for use in submersibles, became a hurdle we had to overcome.
Traditionally, pump-propelled submarines (like Cousteau’s diving saucer, the SOUCOUPE) have been extremely underpowered. In the submarine community, pump propulsion is generally thought to be undesirable; coarsely pitched propellers turning at slow RPM are the norm. In deciding to install an engine-driven hydrojet in the NAUTILUS MINISUB, we are bucking tradition and exploring new areas. And whenever one does that, others will wonder “Why?”
The Disney NAUTILUS design has but one propeller. In our MINISUB, that prop is driven by the Minn Kota electric motor we use underwater. I want a separate source of propulsion that is not affected by the pitch and RPM limitations of that single propeller; and which can be concealed in the NAUTILUS metalwork to provide invisible thrust. The hydrojet meets these basic design requirements. And we just happen to have a jetski, so from an economic standpoint it makes sense to try it.
THEORY VERSUS
REALITY
Let’s look at some of the performance differences between propellers and jet pumps:
The propeller moves a wide column of water a short
distance. It's like a screw boring its way through wood. The speed and distance
achieved by a propeller can be determined by knowing prop pitch and rpm.
The pump moves a narrow column of water very rapidly over a long distance; and
it is the momentum of the water ejected by the pump that imparts forward
motion to the boat, in accord with Newton's Third Law of Motion: Action and
Reaction.
The thrust column from a prop has a wide surface area; and
thus, a wider area of water to push against. As an illustration: visualize
trying to push the end of a baseball bat through a sail: the sail resists and
pushes back.
The thrust column from a pump is much narrower: it doesn't have as wide an area
of water to push against. In fact, the water tends to absorb the thin,
high-speed thrust column. It's more like pushing a knitting needle rapidly
against a sail: the needle penetrates, and the sail doesn't push back as
efficiently.
When Sir William Hamilton invented the first jet boat in 1954, he discovered it’s best to project a hydrojet above the waterline because, underwater, thrust momentum is absorbed and pump efficiency is decreased.
To illustrate the momentum-absorbing capabilities of
water, consider this:
In the air, the 7.62mm bullet from an M-60 machinegun travels at 2800 FPS for
an effective range of over 3000 feet. In the water, that same bullet will stop
in about six feet, because water is approximately 800 times denser than air is.
Likewise, when the jet pump projects a thrust column below the waterline, the
water may quickly absorb the momentum, and thrust efficiency can be lost.
Therefore, generally speaking, hydrojet pumps work best when they project a
thrust column at or above the waterline: which is what happens when a boat or
jetski is “up on the plane” at high speed.
Now, if thrust loss at depth was all there is the equation, it might not be feasible to install a pump at a depth of 16 inches on our submarine. But it seems there’s more to it than just that. Pump efficiency is also dependant upon pump loading, intake ram pressure, internal pressure, and other factors that might even be improved under certain circumstances with a few inches extra depth.
Mechanically speaking, it would
be easiest for us to mount a jetpump on the sub as it usually runs: in “direct
drive” fashion. But as I’ve said, that
will put it at a depth of 16 inches below the waterline.
If I build a Z-drive, I could
mount the pump up closer to the surface where it normally runs, but then we’ll
probably have problems keeping it loaded (full of water) when the boat is
moving, pitching and rolling in swells, and so on.
So it looks like mounting it low is the best way to go; but how to know if there will be enough residual thrust at that depth to make the installation worthwhile? The best thing to do would be to operate the hydrojet at that depth myself; but ours was disassembled and being rebuilt at the time. So I asked some seasoned jetski pilots what they experienced when they performed maneuvers with the pump submerged at greater than normal operating depths.
Some freestyle riders
intentionally “submarine” their jetskis.
That’s a maneuver where they stall the boat, drop the nose, and gun
it. It will run for a short time
submerged that way. As the jetski takes
off underwater, drivers say they have to fight to keep from being ripped off by
the hydrodynamic force. Obviously, that
force is comprised of water drag on the pilot’s body; but the fact that it’s
happening at all speaks well of how much thrust the pump is producing at that
depth.
There’s another maneuver called
a “monkey jump” where the rider does a tailstand with the ski; allows it to
sink vertically to a depth of several feet (one guy said five feet), and
then applies full power. Jetski pilots
report the pump produces enough thrust at that depth to blow both rider and ski
completely up and out of the water.
Again, that’s very encouraging.
The experienced jetski people I
spoke with said I should expect to get good thrust out of the pump at a depth
of 16 inches: that’s really not excessively deep. We’re never going to see jetski speeds because of the differences
in drag between a submarine and a planing hull; but we knew that all
along. And to avoid cavitation, we’ll
probably have to be reserved in how rapidly we apply the throttle. But if I apply partial power, get moving,
and gradually add power as speed increases, something in the neighborhood of 12
to 15 MPH seems achievable. Now, that’s
not really fast as boats go; but it is very fast for a minisub, and it’s much
faster than we get with the Minn Kota thruster alone.
Plus, there are practical
advantages to having additional power to cope with adverse ocean currents, and
having a second propulsion system in case one fails. So, the modification seems worth doing.
THE “PEARL DIVING” NAUTILUS
Some scale modelers say their
R/C NAUTILUS models spontaneously “crash-dive” at high speeds. While the exact reason why this occurs is
unknown, they conclude it must be due to an inherent hydrodynamic instability
in the Disney NAUTILUS design. Well,
let’s look at that for a moment.
(I use the term “pearling”
to describe an uncontrollable downward pitching tendency: a term used by
surfers in the 1960’s to describe how their boards would suddenly “pearl dive”
towards the bottom if the rider was too far forward while paddling to catch a
wave, and the nose of the board accidentally submerged during takeoff.)
With reference to their own
NAUTILUS models, some R/C enthusiasts speculate “pearling” is due to negative
hydrodynamic lift at the bow, engendered via Bernoulli’s Principle; or that the
aft-inclined surfaces of the wheelhouse structure are deflecting water up and
back, and insodoing, acting like a fore-plane to push the nose down. In either case (they say) a downward
pitch occurs automatically at speed, and a steep, uncontrollable crash dive is
the result. Obviously (they say)
this raises safety concerns for the pilot of a manned scale NAUTILUS (like
mine) moving at increased velocities.
At the time of this writing,
exactly why some un-manned NAUTILUS replicas “pearl” is still unknown. Perhaps it may be a hydrodynamic effect
rather than a ballast or weight-shift problem.
Possibly, adverse pitching forces are overwhelming available dynamic
pitch control. Or it may simply be a
peculiarity of the models themselves.
The general arrangement and
configuration of major components like the pressure hull, ballast tanks (if
any) and external hull found in most R/C NAUTILUS replicas is far different
from what Harper Goff envisioned. The
Disney NAUTILUS pressure hull is of the same approximate shape and volume as
the submarine itself, with relatively few free-flooding areas. Conversely, most R/C replicas are comprised
of a small watertight cylinder situated within a much larger free-flooding
outer shell that merely replicates the appearance of the NAUTILUS. (One might describe the Disney NAUTILUS
as a traditional “dry” submarine design, while R/C models are more like “wetsub
hulls” with a smaller dry equipment cylinder situated within.) The relationships of weight, buoyancy, and
variable ballast are very different in those two types of vessels; as are their hydrostatic and hydrodynamic
performance characteristics. From a
functional standpoint, comparing the two becomes a matter of “apples and
oranges”.
However, the NAUTILUS MINISUB’s
internal and external hull configuration closely matches that of the Disney
NAUTILUS. Also, my hydrobatic ballast
and hydrodynamic control systems provide pitch authority superior to any
NAUTILUS replica on the planet. In
manned operations, I’ve been able to run level, deliberately crash dive the
boat at very steep angles, and recover without any hesitation whatsoever. These systems even enable me to alter the
pitch attitude of the boat as much as 90 degrees away from level trim, and
recover. No other NAUTILUS replica, and
none of the models exhibiting pearling tendencies, has anything approaching
that degree of pitch control authority.
So the fact that some R/C NAUTILUS replicas pearl doesn’t mean that the
NAUTILUS MINISUB will.
DIVERGENT OPINIONS
I have discussed the
aforementioned issues with R/C modelers who either cannot or will not understand
them. Some become pendantic, insist on
their own opinions in deference to facts, overlook the differences between
their models and real submarines, offer flawed comparisons and equations in
support of their theories, and sometimes go away angry. There’s nothing I can do about that.
Based on math that has always
proven to be reliable; and based also on my own first-hand experience actually
piloting a submarine of Disney NAUTILUS configuration; I believe the NAUTILUS
MINISUB systems will (as they always have) provide sufficient control
authority at the increased speeds we might achieve to avoid the pearling
tendencies experienced by some smaller, unmanned, differently-configured, and
less-controllable NAUTILUS replicas.
There is nobody else on this planet with more experience than I have
piloting a submarine of Disney NAUTILUS configuration; and there’s nobody who
understands the NAUTILUS MINISUB like I do.
Arguing the functionality of my submarine with people who don’t build
subs is pointless. So damn the
naysayers, and full speed ahead.
MOVING ON
Adapting the NAUTILUS MINISUB
with a hydrojet propulsion system involves more than the (admittedly tricky)
installation of the engine and squirt-drive.
Finalizing the drivetrain placement within the hull, with thought given
to all the other necessary components of the sub, has been a time consuming and
labor-intensive process; but making the job even more difficult has been the
consideration necessary to achieve all the related systems needed to make the
whole thing work. Accordingly, the
months since the last installment in this post have been spent on considerable
design development, equipment procurement, and so on.
Long story short (for now)
the improvements to all systems of the NAUTILUS MINISUB have exceeded anything
I envisioned at the start of this project.
I’ve not settled for the simplest method of making it functional: I’ve
taken it further, and further still, until what we have now is a highly refined
“push-button boat”. The system improvements
exceed the scope of what I have time to describe in writing at present, and
will not be fully disclosed until the boat is operational (if then).
For now: let it suffice to say
that, at the time of this writing, we have overcome all the technological
design challenges of adapting our new propulsion, guidance, ballast, and other
systems for use in the NAUTILUS; and, we’ve obtained and tested all the
component parts which comprise those systems.
It all works. We have arrived at
the point of installing it all into the hull.
NEW! ON SECOND
THOUGHT…
Saturday, March 08, 2008: Been quite a while since I considered
installing an engine-driven hydrojet drivetrain in the NAUTILUS MINISUB, and
not a lot of real progress has been made.
Not sniveling, but the fact is I got injured on my “real job”, and the
recuperative process has taken a long time.
With the help of some friends I’ve been able to accomplish some things
with our 20,000 Leagues Diving Suits; and my recent acquisition of an
authentic Disney Diver’s Helmet and Boots has had me doing a lot of research
and writing; but for the past couple years I haven’t even been able to climb
inside the submarine, let alone work on it. So for the most part, it’s just been sitting in the shop,
gathering dust. L
But every cloud has a silver
lining, and sometimes stepping back from a project and looking at it afresh can
keep you from making a serious mistake.
And I think that’s what’s happened here.
I had acquired all the
components for the modification: rebuilt jetski drivetrain, watertight
propshaft through-hull, humongous servo valves for the intake and exhaust,
cabin blower fans, hydraulic, pneumatic, and electronic controls, etc. etc.
etc. ad infinitum. Got all the drawings
and working plans done: worked out all the math (weight and balance, etc.) and
everything was a GO. It was time to
start cutting into the hull and installing all that stuff. Then, my injury made it impossible for me to
do that kind of heavy work. So the
submarine has been on hold, and only recently have I begun thinking about it
again.
I drew some plans and templates
for the salon window fairings. All that
stuff is going to be handmade out of metal and riveted together. Gonna have lights, bubble windows, the whole
nine yards. It should look pretty
authentic when I am finally able to get it all built, but so far it’s just
drawings.
Anyway, I was down in the shop
the other day, just sitting there, looking at the sub and thinking about
it. I was visualizing the location of
the engine, squirt-drive, additional air tanks, and all that other good
stuff. More or less installing it in
my mind, while going over my old notes.
“Yes, by God,” I thought to
myself, “the numbers say it will all fit and she’ll float in trim. I can do it, and it will work.”
But you know, there’s something
every inventive technologist needs to remember: “What looks good on paper
doesn’t always work well in the real World.” (Kind of like the guy in Italy
who invented a motorcycle that would run underwater, and then realized nobody
would ever want one.) And as I thought about it, I began to reconsider
problems beyond the mechanics of making it operational.
Yes, I can install all that
stuff and get the sub to trim normally.
There won’t be room for a passenger any more, but that would be an
acceptable sacrifice. I’ve overcome the
problems of fire hazard, exhaust noise, and much more. I can put that squirt drive in there and it
will run. The boat will move. But then what?
I was watching a Youtube
video taken from inside Rob Innes’ latest semi-submersible. That thing has way better pilot visibility
than my MINISUB does, but when it’s running with the canopy awash, it’s like
your inside a waterfall looking out, and you can’t see to navigate. So….
1. Anyone who has seen 20,000
Leagues Under the Sea knows what the Disney Nautilus looks like on the
attack: water rushing up over the front of the wheelhouse, and the windows are
awash. The NAUTILUS MINISUB has very
little freeboard, and the visibility from the pilot’s windows isn’t “great”
under any circumstances. Once we start
moving “fast”, even if we’re not ballasted down to dive, bow wake and wave
action are going to blind the forward viewports, and I’m not going to be able
to see where I’m going: if not all the time, then a good part of the time. So
that’s a real problem right there. Hide
a video camera in the roof lights?
Still the same problem. They’ll
get drenched at speed, too.
2. Also: the ocean isn’t
usually flat calm. There’s going to be
at least some up and down motion once we’re underway. Taking that into consideration, I’d designed the engine air
intakes as high as possible while still keeping them concealed; and equipped
them with pneumatic servo valves that open and close automatically if, say, a
wave rolls over the top, or we submerge temporarily in a trough. But because we have to remain within
design constraints imposed by how the Disney Nautilus design looks, the
freeboard for the intake valve sensors is only about eight inches. Running awash, generating a wake, and in
anything but smooth water (which we almost never have here in Hawaii, and
we’re never going to have when underway) those valve sensors are
going to be in a constant state of flux; onboard air supplies will be gone in a
matter of moments; and beyond that the engine is basically useless.
I’ve studied what Doc Rowe has
done with his BIONIC DOLPHIN watercraft: they are able to run just under the
surface because they have a tall “fin” housing a snorkel that’s several feet
tall and designed to stay out of the water.
On the NAUTILUS MINISUB, there’s no place to hide such a device and
still stay true to the Disney Nautilus design.
So, yes I can make it work on paper; but in the ocean, it doesn’t look
like it will work very well.
3. Then again, I’ve also been
seriously considering what the Coast Guard is going to say about it. Remember: we’re talking about actually
piloting a manned submarine in the mid-Pacific Ocean. Realistically speaking: going fast over considerable distances in
a small, low-riding steel submersible covered with hatchet-like sawteeth and a
ramming spur, and not being able to see where you’re going all the time, is an
activity I’d expect the Feds to raise an eyebrow at. Even if I meet the new requirements of licensing it as an engine
driven boat with real speed and distance capability, and even if I meet the
requirements for fire extinguishers and everything else related to power boats,
we’re still going to run into government opposition. Because of the size and shape of the design; because it’s that
small and that low in the water; because it’s covered with all those dangerous
protrusions and able to travel at great distance and speed with only minimal
visibility available to the pilot; and especially because it is going to be
hard for other boaters to see and avoid (imagine what would happen if I
were to speed into a swimmer or SCUBA diver, or if someone on a sailboard,
jetski, or Avon boat should crash into me); there is a good chance it could
be deemed a menace to navigation.
It happened to one of John Phillip Holland’s early boats.
In sum, it seems extremely
likely that, if I try to turn the NAUTILUS MINISUB into a speed demon, (A) any
benefits of increased functionality will be largely offset by real world
conditions limiting same; and (B) in the event it is a success, the physical
characteristics of the boat will give the government just cause to condemn
it. And I don’t see any way around those
negative possibilities.
Therefore, I’m going on record
now as saying I am no longer willing to risk my boat (or anyone else’s
safety) by cutting into the hull and installing an engine-driven hydrojet
propulsion system.
I still have all the
equipment. Most of the control
components and other improvements will still go into the NAUTILUS.
I also have two other basic
hulls, and one day I may use the engine and jet pump to build a high
performance submersible of a design capable of avoiding the aforementioned
problems.
Or, I might just put the
rebuilt drivetrain back into the jetski it came out of. It was, after all, one of those used in
Kevin Costner’s movie Waterworld, and having it up and running again
would be kind of cool in its own right.
For now, the plan for the
NAUTILUS MINISUB is as follows: (1)
Convert all the manual controls to hydraulic and pneumatic, thereby eliminating
leaky “packing-gland through-hulls” entirely; (2) replace the handmade
ventilator fans with smaller, lighter, and more efficient commercially made
fans; (3) Improve cabin ventilation and life support systems; (4) add Diver
Comm and Public Address systems for improved communications; (5) install
improved navigation and sonar equipment; (6) replace the electric motor
propulsion system with the largest and most powerful E-motor system on the
market; (7) detail the interior in Victorian style: painted in Disney Nautilus
colors, with brass trim, red upholstery, and functional iris windows; (8)
complete the exterior detailing in true Nautilus style, with the inclusion of
rivets, functional lights, etc.; and (9) get a better trailer.
The goal: turn the World’s
First real Disney Nautilus submarine into the most efficiently functional and
visually appealing electric boat that she can possibly be. Then, we’re going to do some underwater
video work here in Hawaii, during which times she’ll be operated like any other
small submersible: with a support crew, in a controlled environment, and with
adequate safety markers defining our area of operation. We also plan to put her on display in some
boat shows.
And whatever happens after that
is a bridge I’ll cross when I get to it.
J
(To be continued…)
The Disney Diver
Recollections by Bill
Stropahl
Lately, I’ve been fortunate to work with Disney Diver
Bill Stropahl in publishing articles relating to his experiences as a Disney
Stunt Diver working on 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. It’s been an honor and a pleasure. As you might imagine, the man is a wealth of
experience, and we’re happy to be able to present some of his insights here for
Leaguers everywhere to enjoy. J
Most recently, I updated the VSC page dedicated to
Bill with a few additions expressed in his own writing (as opposed to my notes taken
during out conversations). I also
received additional material that exceeds the scope of that particular page; so
I’m creating an article here in The Journal where you can read about things you
probably haven’t heard about before, in Bill’s own words.
ON WORKING AS A COMMERCIAL HARDHAT DIVER
“Sometimes my work was several States away
and knowing that our equipment was expensive to ship they would say, ‘Don’t
worry, we have all the gear you need here.’
“Experience told me that, (1) their
diving suit will not fit me at 6’3”, it would barely fit a small Japanese
diver, and it’s full of mold. (2) They
do not have a diving knife that will cut anything! (3) Their air compressor is so old it puts out more oil than
air. (4) 80% of their non-return valves
do not work. (5) The air-diverting
channels in the helmets are loose or have holes in them. This directs ice-cold air full force into
your head. You cannot feel the top of
your head until the next morning. So I
always carried a Navy watch cap, a non-return valve, a good knife, a large #3
diving suit, an oil separator for my air hose, heavy wool socks, and surplus
Air Force long johns. Also, a bottle of
alcohol to wash out the bad breath inside the helmet. Then I’d hope for the best.”
A GRIM INCIDENT WHILE
WORKING WITH E.R. CROSS
“I remember one job, maybe the last that E.R. Cross and I worked on together. A semi-truck went off a 50-foot cliff into a lake that was a city water reservoir, with the driver at the wheel and his partner sleeping in the back. The City did not want to pay for shipping our equipment to the site by air and asked us to drive. It had been two days already when the story reached the newspapers and TV. All hell broke out when the Citizens realized there were two dead bodies soaking in their drinking water. We were on a plane that afternoon with all our equipment!”
BURIAL CEREMONY UNDER THE
SEA
“The most important diving scene in the movie was the burial of a Nautilus crewman. The body was formed out of wire mesh and looked very life like. We carried it on a stretcher supported by four crewman, two more crewmen followed. A heavy asbestos blanket covered the body to keep the water from blowing it off. Captain Nemo led the way carrying a large coral cross. We walked between two piles of coral the size of bowling balls and placed the stretcher between them.
Captain Nemo placed the Cross at the head of the stretcher and stepped back. The two crewmen at the back of the stretcher stepped forward and the two crewmen following stepped forward and took their place. There were now three crewmen on both sides of the stretcher and a row of coral behind each man. When Captain Nemo raised his arms each diver turned around and picked up a piece of coral and gently placed it upon the body. They continued until all the coral was gone. Captain Nemo dropped his arms, hesitated, then looked up towards the Nautilus and pointed towards it.
What really happened was—when we all turned at the same time to reach for the coral there was no room for our air tanks. Then after a quiet wrestling match with the next diver, we did pick up some coral, but that just made things worse, we could not reach the body to place coral the size of a bowling ball gently on top. We were also running out of time, so we just flipped the coral on top of the body the best we could. So went the rest of the pile. Later, when I reached the surface I looked at the body in the stretcher and it was flat as a pancake. We had stoned the poor fellow to death.
But no one seemed to notice. Or did they?” J
RESCUING THE BAHAMIAN BOY
“Something that always bothered me was a mistake on the DVD ‘the making of the movie’, that accompanied the DVD ‘20,000 Leagues Under the Sea’. The part that mentioned that I pulled a young boy up on the deck of the barge from his sinking skiff was true, but the picture shows a fairly modern boat, when in fact the boy’s skiff looked handmade of something like reeds.
I was sitting alone on the port side of the diving barge looking at the storm when I saw something in the water a good distance away. While I was watching, I realized that the ship was turning in a wide circle in its direction. The captain had seen the object too. I realized it was a person in the water, very low in the water.
As the captain neared the boy, whom I now recognized, I saw his skiff was just under water but he was still sitting inside. The captain put his ship, still running, along the side where I was hanging out over the water. The water was very rough that’s why we were not diving. The boy had his hand up, one moment he was level with mine, the next moment he was three feet below. I could not change my position but as luck would have it, as a wave raised him up, I was able to grab his wrist and set him on deck.
If anyone is interested, I am enclosing a picture of the boy the captain and I pulled from the sea on the deck of the diving barge talking to some divers. I don’t know who that is in the picture in the DVD, but he looks old enough to swim to shore.”
(Ed. Note: I have Bill’s photograph and will include it as soon as I get it scanned.)
(To be continued…)
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Copyright
2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, by Pat Regan, “All Rights Reserved.”